“One of the best places on the island to see how this is all arranged is the village of Saint-Jean. You’d hardly know the farms were even there. They sit back on top of the hill which you soon realise is an escarpment, carved out by the river thousands of years ago. Below, in amongst well-tended maples and oaks, sit probably the most perfect collection of historic houses you’ll see anywhere in Canada. This is where the farm tenants (the habitants) lived, as well as all the other people who made their living on the river as fishermen or sailors.”