“We left just before sunset because of the wondrous shadows that the low-angled sun produced on all the humps and bumps. It’s often said that the desert is forever changing, and our ride certainly proved the point. You’d see a stunning view, but then quickly be drawn away to another one.
Eventually, after a few minutes, your gaze would take itself around to the first one again, but you couldn’t be quite sure. You could still recognise the landmarks, but at the same time the light had altered everything else.
It was really magical, and it didn’t take long before I forgot almost completely that I had a loping, 3m tall animal transporting me along.”