“The mausoleum is another Stalinist epic, all sharp edged pillars, and a crown with the words “HO CHI MINH” just a little bit too square, making it look somehow all out of proportion as a result. Everywhere there are guards, in white uniforms and hats, marching back and forth in front of the wreaths left by the constant string of visitors from the countryside. The guards have shrill whistles, which they blow to alert people to the many infractions they might commit.”